After over two years of living and working in Algiers, I have spent considerable time exploring the city and its surroundings, as well as entertaining a handful of adventurous visitors. In the process, I've gotten to know this city well—even if I'm still discovering more each day.
One thing I've learned: there is lots to do here! (Not a surprise in a Mediterranean port of 4 million people that is also the capital of Africa's largest country, and yet its reputation sadly suggests otherwise.)
Distilling all the Algerian capital's unique sights, culture, and activities into one brief not-to-be-missed list isn't easy, but summer tourism season is upon us, and I have to try something to get more of you to visit! (Plus, the country's tourism officials don't seem likely to try it anytime soon.) So without further ado, here is my selection of 16 essential activities that every visitor to Algiers should experience:
1. Climb the Casbah
The most iconic sectionof Algiers is also its oldest—the famed Casbah, which
was Algiers for centuries, before the French arrived and built their "new city" around it. The Casbah is
the heart and soul of the Algerian capital's traditional culture, one of its
most picturesque sectors, and also an
essential yet imperiled piece of the city's heritage that may not be around forever. The Casbah is a highlight of many visitors' trips to Algiers, but there is no self-guided option; navigating the warren of steep stairs and alleys requires a knowledgeable local guide. It's a hike, so don't forget comfortable shoes. (Also see:
"Come with me to the Casbah")
2. Hop the télépherique to Madame l'Afrique
With its steep hills slanting down to the bay, Algiers resembles a North Africa San Francisco, at least in terms of topography. Thankfully, five fully operational
téléphériques, or cable cars, link the city's heights to the coastal quarters below. For a great view, try the gondolas ascending from the seaside Bologhine neighborhood to Algiers' very own miniature cathedral, Notre Dame d'Afrique. Affectionately known locally as "Madame l'Afrique", the Catholic cathedral, built to face its larger sister basilica on the hills above Marseille, still operates regular services, but welcomes visitors of all faiths. Don't miss the spectacular sea view from the cathedral's steps.
3. Enjoy the best classic cuisines
Every Algérois (resident of Algiers) will tell you that the best food around is always home cooking, but even the most discerning of critics grudgingly admit that Djenina—the capital's best traditional restaurant—makes top-notch
couscous,
tajine,
mechoui, and other traditional dishes. The historic restaurant's ornate Mauresque interior and impeccable service are an added bonus. For even better
tchekhchoukha (my own personal favorite among Algerian dishes), head down the street to another, much cheaper traditional restaurant, Khaymat Essaoura, outfitted to look like the interior of a Saharan nomad's tent.
4. Send a postcard from the Grande Poste
The central post office of Algiers is a marvel of French colonial appropriation of local styles, and one of Algiers' most impressive structures. On the sidewalk a few meters away, a trinket seller sets up shop each day, offering postcards with plenty of classic Algerian views. Pick a few up, along with stamps from one of the counters in the post office's ornate interior, write down some first impressions of the city, and say a prayer: Algeria's postal service leaves much to be desired, and if my own experience is any guide, your postcard may never arrive at its destination!
5. Celebrate the Fennecs
Given football's popularity here, a visitor could almost be forgiven for mistaking the national sport for the national religion. (On second thought, better to not make that mistake!) The Fennecs, Algeria's long-beloved national team, have won over a new generation of adoring fans with strong performances in the last two World Cups. A victory—or even sometimes a tie—brings jubilant crowds into the city's streets with fireworks, honking, flags, and patriotic chants. It is a celebration not to be missed. (Also see:
"In Algeria, a Historic World Cup Already")
6. Savor fresh seafood
Algiers' location on the Mediterranean coast gives the region's fishermen prime access to some great seafood. And where better to eat it than in one of the restaurants overlooking the fishing port? La Madrague is where locals in the know go to eat delicious swordfish, shrimp, mullet, sea bass, whiting, and more, all freshly caught from the sea. Grilled sardines marinated in fiery red
derssa sauce are a must, and pair well with local Tango beer.
7. Shop the boulevards
While they may not stack up to the great avenues of Milan, Paris, New York, or other major fashion centers, Algiers' main shopping drags bring plenty of historical charm. Rue Didouche Mourad, Place Audin, and Rue d'Isly have been window shoppers' and people watchers' paradises since colonial times, and remain so today. Besides the standard clothing and shoe sellers, curio shops sell wonderful oddities (e.g. lizard purses, with head and feet still attached), and it's easy to lose oneself amid the antique shops and used booksellers. Just don't forget to look up—these streets have some of the most ornate and well maintained façades in town.
8. Stroll the Jardin d'Essai
First planted by the French in the 1830s, the Jardin d'Essai, or "trial garden", was where the colonizers attempted to grow plants from all their other colonies to see what took in the local climate. But the gardens long ago surpassed their practical origins. Today, Algiers' answer to Central Park has thousands of species of temperate and tropical plants, and its tree-lined walkways are a favorite local hangout spot for anyone seeking tranquility in the city.
9. Marvel at the MAMA
Besides occupying an awe-inspiring space, Algiers's modern art museum—built in a masterfully converted colonial-era department store—is a great place to see works by Algeria's burgeoning (yet largely unknown) young creative class. Curious decisions by the curators (e.g. a "Potpourri" exhibit featuring African masks, local still life paintings, and Asian jade carvings) can make many visits exciting, if baffling. Also don't miss a chance to see concerts, exhibition openings, or other special events at the museum.
10. Sip a sunset cocktail at the Aurassi
Recently renovated, the Aurassi Hotel is a cut above the rest in Algiers in terms of quality as well as geography. The enormous ridged block building looms over the capital, dominating from the peak of the highest hilltop. (One look and you'll see why it is known here as "the air conditioner of Algiers".) From its terrace, you can take in the whole city and port far below. Sunset is the best time to come and enjoy a cocktail while taking in the best view in a town full of exceptional views.
11. Scarf the local street food
Many visitors to Algiers, expecting traditional Middle Eastern fare, are surprised to learn that few Algerians know what
hummus or
falafel are. Instead, the local grub of choice for students, laborers, and anyone else on a budget is
garantita—a warm chickpea-based mash spread on a baguette and topped with spicy red
harrissa sauce. The best companion for it is Algeria's national drink, Hamoud. (Try the apple-flavored dark Selecto version for a true authentic experience.) The whole meal, for you and a few friends, shouldn't set you back more than a buck.
12. Dance to chaabi music
Chaabi literally means "popular" in Arabic, and its name is fitting, given its important place in Algeria's culture—and the capital's in particular. This style was born within the unique melting pot of the Casbah, and combines Andalusian, Jewish, European, and more contemporary Arabic styles in a rhythmic, festive mix. Small concerts pop up throughout the year, but the best time to catch a local
chaabi group is Ramadan, the holy month of fasting when the
Algérois become nocturnal and cultural events abound.
13. Get stuck in traffic
Lucky 13! With its narrow, winding streets and plentiful cars, Algiers has become a traffic nightmare in recent years. Want to bond with the locals? There's no better conversation starter than the traffic, which some days seems to be all anyone talks about. Also on the plus side: at least the scenery is good. If the traffic gets to you, walking is the best solution—and one of the best ways to see the city anyway. (Also see:
"Around Algiers: Navigating the Invisible City")
14. Hit the beach
To escape the heat, the Algérois spend their summers at the many beaches along the Mediterranean coast. While beaches near the cities of Annaba, Bejaia, and Oran are more renowned, the capital holds its own. Beaches to the west of town aren't so clean, but the yellow sands of Ain Taya, just east of Algiers, are well kept, and the atmosphere is comfortable even for Western women. The best part about Ain Taya? The Hotel Turquoise, with its superb seafood restaurant overlooking the surf, is just down the beach.
15. Slurp espressos with the boys
Cafés in Algiers tend to be smoke-filled, male-dominated affairs. That said, the occasional local woman does duck in for a coffee, invariably served here from a traditional Italian espresso press. Spend enough time here and you, too, will learn to crave that small cup of black magic, thick as motor oil—or, in my case, two—each morning. (For the faint of heart,
café au lait is available. Or try another local favorite—mint tea flavored with rose water from the shaker on the bar). If you're downtown, pick up bragging rights by sampling a historical
café like the Milk Bar or Tantonville.
16. Get lost
Exploring the narrow streets that zigzag along Algiers' hillsides is a particular pleasure of the city, as well as a great way to make unexpected friends. Even a modest alleyway can sometimes hide the most sumptuous villas and gardens. Spend some time househunting (on foot of course), or at least pretending that you could afford to live in one of them! If nothing else, you will discover a side of Algiers that few visitors take the time to explore. (Also see:
"Walking the Hillsides of Algiers")
